Continued from Part 2
TOOLS AND MATERIALS:
– Translucent Liquid Sculpey
– X-Acto knife
– brass tubing 3/32″ and 1/16″
– Magic smooth epoxy gel
– angelina fusible film
– wing wire
– crystal lacquer
– Fabritac glue
– silk gauze
– gold cord
– Tibetan lamb fur
– mini scissors
– disposable brushes
I put the hair on Fortuna and took pictures, it is drying at the moment, will style, take more pics and post them. Hardly a tutorial, as I do my hair differently every time and I don’t have a “procedure” yet, but still something to give folks an idea of how to go about it.
I get a lot of questions about hair, some folks even ask whether one needs to cut it off the pelt or just put it on the doll with the skin. I thought there are quite a few tutorials on the web, but I guess there is room for one more “step-by-step-how-to” on making hair on OOAK fairy out of tibetan lamb fur. Now I will have something to refer them to. Long overdue.
All right, here we go:
How to make OOAK hair out of Tibetan Lamb fur
1. Search out and put on the table: the doll, a tibetan lamb fur pelt, fabri-tac glue, toothpicks, sharp scissors.
2. With sharp scissors, shear the hair off the pelt, keeping scissors close to the roots. Carefully spread out the hair preserving the natural ringlets / locks of hair.
3. Pick one at a time by the MIDDLE of the lock. Holding it tight by the middle, straighten the hair out on both sides (that will remove occasional stray hairs). Make as many locks as you think you will need – you can make more later.
4. Snip the end (the root end) of the lock off. With a toothpick, apply Fabri-tac glue on all sides of the snipped end.
5. Starting from the back of the head, place the end with the glue on the head, press with a toothpick and spread it out into a thin layer. This is first “tier” – the lowest part of the back of the head. You can divide the surface of the head into sections with a pencil, just to keep you oriented.
The Fabri-tac glue is kept on a piece of paper throughout the whole process (a drop at a time, as it dries quickly).
Pick up a bit with a toothpick (in a scooping kind of motion), smudge over the end of the hair lock, plop the hair on the head, TURN THE TOOTHPICK AROUND AND PRESS WITH THE CLEAN END OF THE TOOTHPICK. Hold for a few seconds, slowly pull the toothpick away, holding the hair in place with your finger (just in case toothpick got stuck). REPLACE THE TOOTHPICK FROM TIME TO TIME AS IT GETS TOO MUCH GLUE ON IT.
One more thing – I have a spare bottle of Fabri-tac with just a bit of glue on the bottom. Before I start working with Fabri-tac, I add a bit of PURE acetone (hardware kind, not polish-remover kind) to the bottle and shake it up – that dilutes the Fabri-tac and makes it more workable.
6. Second “tier” of hair – same way:
7. Temples (cut the locks shorter – about half). When you cut the locks, cut the ROOT end, to preserve the naturally formed curly end of the lock.
8. Above the forehead – cut the locks even shorter if you want to form bangs.
9. Continue all around the head, applying hair in “tiers”, IN THE DIRECTION of the hair growth, until you come all the way to the top.
10. Prepare 3 larger locks of hair for the crown. Put a drop of glue into the little bold spot on top of the head.
11. Pick up the FIRST larger lock of hair, put the glue on the end (just like you did on all of them) and apply it on the BACK of the little bold spot AGAINST THE DIRECTION of the growth of the hair (holding hair upward).
12. Pick up the SECOND larger lock of hair, put the glue on the end (just like you did on all of them) and apply it on the LEFT side of the little bold spot AGAINST THE DIRECTION of the growth of the hair (holding hair upward).
13. Pick up the THIRD larger lock of hair, put the glue on the end (just like you did on all of them) and apply it on the RIGHT side of the little bold spot AGAINST THE DIRECTION of the growth of the hair (holding hair upward).
14. With the BLUNT side of exacto knife (not the cutting side) press down on both sides to form the parting line. That drop of glue in the middle of the little bold spot was for that purpose.
15. Let it dry for at least an hour. Will be right back.
I am back with the last batch of pictures for today.
16. Pull the hair back and apply a thin ACCURATE LINE of glue to the hairline and sideburns. Flip the hair forward, some of it will stick to the glue, hopefully just the right amount. Allow this to dry well too.
17. Once the glue is dry, wet the entire head upside down. Pat some of the dripping wet out with a towel. Work in some human hair styling gel. Find the parting line with the needle and style!
I am going to put her down and let it dry, I am sure I will style more later, but for now – here is what I have – see the pics below. It is always fun to see for the first time – after the hair is on – what she really looks like – I think she is pretty!
I started at 4:30, it is 12:30 right now, total time – 8 hours, but that includes taking pictures and writing here, so your time will be a bit shorter.
I am back – sandals are done. They are easy to make, but just in case you are at a loss how to go about them, here we go:
How to make Sandals (Antique or not)
1. Locate a piece of thin soft leather or suede or felt. I happen to live in an All-You-Can-Eat OOAK supplies store and have an unfair advantage. Therefore, my choice is butterscotch lambskin in antique finish.
Also bring your doll, search the fabric bins for thin metallic cord or silk thread or anything of that nature, get your Fabri-tac glue, a large-eared needle, scissors, toothpicks, and whatever embellishments you can think of – in my case – 2 mm irisdescent microbeads.
2. Make a paper template of the dolls foot and cut out 4 pieces of leather, like on the picture below.
3. If there is hole in the bottom of the foot, like in my case, cut the hole. I happened to have a leather hole puncher which very conveniently did the job (the proof one can never have too many tools), but I would imagine scissors will do the job, although with more difficulty. Glue the top pieces of leather directly onto the sole.
4. Needle helps to thread the cord through the leather.
5. Stick the needle into the bottom of the foot so that it comes up between the toes – that is the starting point. Cut the needle off – you have two long ends of cord.
6. Lace up the cord making the sandal design – all the way to the knee and back down.
7. Put one end of the cord into the needle again, thread through the sole on one side, then do the same thing on another side.
8. Snip off the cord and glue the second part of the leather sole.
9. Trim the edge with scissors, glue a piece of cord all around the sole edge to give the sandals more finished look (and hide the glue)
Here is what I have now:
The toga day.
I will need
– about a square foot of white silk gauze
– Fabri-tac glue
– Crystal lacquer
– about 2-3 feet of thin gold metallic cord
– a brush
– X-Acto knife
– glass surface (I am using glass shelves from an old curio cabinet)
– Fabric stiffener, or fast drying ultra hold hairspray (I am using Pantene Texturize!)
Silk gauze is a marvelous fabric for OOAK as it is sheer, light, drapes beautifully and comes in delightful colors. The only problem is the edge and finishing it. Although you can leave it as it is, I prefer the clean cut finished edge, especially on this sculpt. So I need to finish the edges on the silk pieces before I make the costume.
1. Think about your costume structure. Take your time and do a bit of considering and cutting and trying and fitting on a doll with pieces of paper napkin – to save on silk gauze in case of a mistake.
1. Cut three panels of white silk gauze.
2. Put the piece of on the glass and paint the edge with crystal lacquer, trying to get the piece flat on the glass.