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Morezmore – Historian – HPA Doll – Part 2

Continues from Part 1.
Historian is the next part of the HPA (Humanly Posable Armature) Doll project.

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If you just arrived and landed here, you can see the detailed description of the parts and tools here.

All Tools and Materials Used in This Project:

Sculping Head Stand (to sculpt head in peace, provides a grip, prevents rotation)
Mini Human Skull Reference Model (sculpting reference)
1:6 scale Male Anatomy Reference Model
Living Doll Polymer Clay (to sculpt)
X-acto knife (to cut things)
manual drill handle and 5/32 drill bit (to drill the hole in the head)
1 round brass tube 5/32″ (to make head, hands and feet removable)
32 joint compression plates (for joints)
28 ball joint screw (for joints)
16 M2 x 10 mm screw (for joints)
20 M2 hex nut (for joints)
4 brass connectors M2 x 5 mm (to connect joints)
11 brass connectors M2 x 10 mm (to connect joints)
6 brass connectors M2 x 20 mm (to connect joints)
2 chest/hip connectors
tube cutter (to cut the tubes)
wire cutters (to cut the screws to size)
long nose serrated pliers (to hold things tight)
ice pick (to open the tube ends – after cutting the diameter on the cut end becomes a bit smaller)
allen key (for hex nuts)
compass divider (to measure things)
6 mm ring magnet (for magnetic wrist joints)
7 mm brass tube (for magnetic wrist joints)
JB Cold Weld Steel Reinforced Epoxy (to secure threaded balls and connectors, joint sealant)
cotton-covered wire (for fingers, I am using 32GA)
Cat Tongue Sculpting Brushes (micro sculpting smoothing brushes)
Translucent Liquid Sculpey (liquid clay)
ball-point stylus tools in different sizes (sculpting tools)
Eye Stick (modifed “That’s the one” Tool” – see the description below)
hook micro tool (one of A. Mergold micro sculpting tools)
silicone color shaper, size 2, firm (sculpting tools)
Polymer Oil (smoothing oil) (smoothing oil for polymer clay, thinning agent for genesis paints)
Genesis heat-set paints (individual) or Genesis Paints Face Blushing kit
fine detail brushes (for painting face)
Tibetan lamb fur (Snow White, Silver Grey)
Fabritac glue (glue foam, fabric, leather, etc)
small sharp scissors (for cutting things)
toothpicks (to mix and apply epoxy and glue)
small thin micro spatula (to tuck the ringlets into the hairline, fabric seams, sculpting tool)
buffing sponge (to polish clay and to hone wooden tools)
soft padding foam (for padding)
tubular gauze (for stockings)
miniature buckles (for shoes)
green stretch velvet (for britches)
miniature buttons (for clothes)
fine victorian cotton voile fabric (for shirt)
stretch velvet (for britches)
glove leather (for shoes)
thin felt (for waist coat)

Hands

cotton-covered wire, 1:6 scale image of hands, ball joint screw6 mm ring magnet , a small piece of round brass tube 5/32″.

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Half-sculpted hands (trying a new approach).
Painted with Translucent Liquid Sculpey and baked.

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New Cat Tongue Sculpting Brushes (flat, oval, small – 3 mm and 2 mm wide).

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Face

As I mentioned, I am trying a new (for me) method of face sculpting – skull first, face second. I liked it!

Set the glass eyes and baked. How I have a firm fixed stare instead of crazy eye rolling whenever I try to sculpt the eyelids.

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Tools I used for sculpting:
ball-point stylus tools in different sizes
Eye Stick (modifed “That’s the one” Tool” – see the description below)
hook micro tool (one of A. Mergold micro sculpting tools)
silicone color shaper, size 2, firm

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Smoothed with Polymer smoothing oil and cat tongue brushes.

Baked.
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Face blushing:
1. Paint the whole face with Burnt Umber Genesis heat-set paint diluted with Polymer smoothing oil.
2. Wipe almost all paint off. Some of brown will stay in the wrinkles.
3. With almost dry brush add some Red Genesis paint to the lids, cheeks, nose, ears, lips, corners of the eyes, nostrils.
Heat-set (about 5-7 minutes at 250 degree F (138 degree C).

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Hair and Beard

Tools
Tibetan lamb fur (Snow White, Silver Grey)
Fabritac glue
small sharp scissors
toothpicks (to apply glue)
X-acto knife
small thin micro spatula (to tuck the ringlets into the hairline, fabric seams, sculpting tool)

The full description of making a full head of hair can be found HERE, on Fortuna Post.
Here is just a quick overview of adding a few ringlets of hair to an almost bold head.
Cut the ringlets off the Tibetan lamb piece.

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Pick with flat eyebrow tweezers, snip the end.

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Paint a small area on the face with Fabritac glue, diluted with acetone
(real pure acetone, hardware-store kind, not the polish remover acetone).
Gentle put the ringlet in place on the glue.

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Gently press with a CLEAN WET toothpick.
Complete and allow to dry several hours or overnight.

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Style and cut.
This time I used the hair setting product for human hair, called Lamas Hold Me Thermal Styling Spray, it looks like this:

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And here is my Historian. I am happy with his Yahweh kind of look.

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Eye Stick

I want to share with you my Eye Stick – the tool I made out of “That’s the one” Tool”
I saw this tool on Philippe Faraut video, it is available for purchase at his website.
Unfortunately, it is too large, as Philippe Faraut mostly works in life-size sculpture.
So I made my own – for miniature scale (1:6 to 1:3)

Philippe Faraut’s tool and the way he uses it.

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This is the “That’s the one” tool, the way it comes from the package.

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And this is my modified tool (slightly carved down with a X-Acto knife and smoothed and polished with a buffing sponge.

One end – the Eye Stick.

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This is the other end, also carved and smoothed – I made it in the shape I use most, exactly what I wanted – small rounded spoon-like spatula.
But, of course, it can be made into any shape by choice.

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Padding
For padding I used 2 types of foam:
1/4″ flex foam and pre-wrap foam:

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First – 1/4″ flex foam, building up bulk

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Then – wrap it up with pre-wrap foam. It is stretchy.
Secure here and there with Fabritac glue.
I tried to keep the padding on the joints to the minimum – just a thin layer of pre-wrap foam to cover it up.

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Padding done, some testing/posing/play time.

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I think he looks comfortable.

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Shoes and stockings

First, I put the tubular gauze on the legs – future stockings.
Then – shoes, made out of glove leather, glued with Fabritac glue.

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Fabritac glue can be cleaned up with acetone.

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This is some kind of household chain I had in my chain box, it is the closest I could find to shoe buckles (later update: we now carry buckles!)
I think it worked nicely.

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I also finished hands. Right hand is a “holding” hand – it can hold a pen or other things, such as this nice magnifying glass.

Left hand is pointing finger. Originally it was for tracing the line in the book while reading, but it is good for other gestures.

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Shoe buckles arrived! I did not expect them so soon. Also, I finished the stockings.
Next – shirt,  britches, waistcoat, frock coat, beret, maybe

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First Stop Motion experiment – testing the software

Iphone camera and iphone software app:
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/stop-motion-studio/id441651297?mt=8

This is very crude, I was just testing the idea.
It took about 15 minutes – 25 shots of something like that. Plus about 10 minutes to figure out how to make the movie, convert to gif, upload, rotate, embed into blog and post to facebook. Overall – easy. Worth the effort, I will continue with this.

Continues on Part 3

Thank you for watching 🙂

10 comments on “Morezmore – Historian – HPA Doll – Part 2

  1. That’s amazingly expressive! Excellent job 😀

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Wow, Natasha~this is simply amazing! Can’t wait to see the progress, and, of course, your finished work! Outstanding, as always!

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Fantastic information, TFS !!!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Very good, Natasha.
    What camera and software are you using?
    Carlo

    Liked by 1 person

  5. […] from Part 2. Historian is the next part of the HPA (Humanly Posable Armature) Doll […]

    Like

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