Continues from Part 1
A few hours later – I have 2 heads.
Next – dressing – my favorite part.
Powdered Wig (aka peruke, aka periwig)
I tried viscose roving for the first time. I thought the texture of viscose will look better than the Tibetan lamb that I usually use for hair.
It comes straight – as you see on the photo below. I needed to curl it and, after a few false starts, I figure out how to do it. But first – wig cap.
This is not what it looks like, it is a rubber finger cot. I want to make the wig removable, so this rubber layer will help me.
Cut a piece of tubular gauze – to make a wig cap.
Painted (almost soaked) with Fabritac glue.
Separated viscose roving into tresses and rolled around a knitting needle. The last thin fibers at the end of the tress rolled several times keep it from unraveling, but at the beginning I was using a piece of thread to tie it.
Now, hot surface. This is my iron rigged upside down – to make a hot surface. The highest temperature selected. Just put it on that surface for a few minutes. Experiment with thickness, length and the way you roll the roving around the needle – there are some options with different looks. It took 2 packs of this viscose roving to make the wig, some wasted because I used different heating methods until I got to the iron.
Here is the King – painted and wigged.
Next – Jester – painting the face and his fool’s cap.
Painting – I will write a separate segment about that later.
Hair and fool’s cap
For Jester I just need a little bit of hair, and I am going to use Tibetan lamb.
This is 4″x4″ square – too much.
Next photo – 2″x2″ square – too much.
The fool’s cap is made out of stretch velvet
Half-googled, half-guessed the shape of the pattern and cut. At the end it turned out close enough, only a little bit of trimming was needed.
The fool’s cap is ready. There is some thin wire inside that curls the ends.
The bells are made out of earring back stoppers.
Here is a simple, yet effective and fast way to make a custom pants pattern for your puppet or doll.
1. Measure from the waist to the ankle.
2. Draw a vertical line.
3. Measure the waist.
4. Draw 1/2 of that measurement on the pattern.
5. Measure the depth of the seat.
6. Mark 1/2 of it on the pattern and draw a horizontal line.
11. Connect the dots. My doll has almost the same volume on the stomach and on the buttocks. You might need to add a little more curve on the buttocks area.
12. Here is one leg of the pants. The fabric is Harlequin stretch spandex. I used only a small part, about half of Fat Quarter.
I am remaking the shoes.
First – layer of Sculpey UltraLight.
Cleared the clay out of joints so that it can be flexed.
These are King’s shoes (I am making 2 pairs of shoes at the same time).
King’s shoes have heels, made out of male-to-female Connectors M2x5mm
Over the Sculpey UltraLight – Living doll.
Ultra light is rubbery and performs great around the joint – where I need it to flex, it does not crumble.
But is is not very easy to sculpt details out of it, it is too soft, so I am putting another layer – Living Doll.
Carved the shape of the shoes.
Poulaines for Jester, high heels for King.
Experimentally figured out the shape of the patterns (paper towels, not to waste the leather).
Glued the leather on the foot.
Laced up with black rattail shoe lace cord.
Made rows of tiny holes in the leather to imitate stitching.
Painted with Genesis paint (burnt umber) (rather rubbed some paint on leather with almost dry brush) to highlight the creases, stitching, to make a worn aged look.
Next – Jester’s tunic, belt, marotte (Jester’s stick) and other bells and whistles.
Jacket is done, it is made out of green stretch velvet.
Step by step jacket pattern construction.
1. Measure length from shoulder to the bottom and mark it on the vertical line.
2. Measure width from one sleeve to the other and mark it on the horizontal line.
3. Measure the height of the sleeve opening and draw the chest horizontal line.
4. Measure the circumference of the chest and mark 1/2 of that measurement on the chest horizontal line.
5. Measure the circumference of the hips and mark 1/2 of that measurement on the bottom horizontal line.
The sleeves are of a “medieval design”, unusual cut. I constructed them wrong the first time and had to remake the pattern.
So no photos for the sleeves pattern at the moment, but I will take pictures when I make them for the King.
8. Cut out the back pattern.
9. Tape it to the piece of fabric with removable scotch tape.
10. Cut out, adding a little (2 mm) for the seams.
Here is the back of the jacket.
11. Fold the back pattern to make the front panel. Not quite at the middle – to allow some fabric for the front closure.
12. Flip your folded pattern, tape the same way and cut out the second panel.
13. The red star is the collar.
14. There is very little room for sewing, so I am just using Fabritac glue to finish the edges.
Show off time
Jester has an experimental Humanly Posable SuperFlex armature, he is very lithe and graceful, able to assume more poses than the King (Humanly Posable Armature Standard). Jester can even roll into a ball.
Continues on Part 3