Continues from Part 3
Morezmore OOAK Doll #29
Scale: 1/6, Size: 11.5″ (29 cm)
021. Adding clay, correcting the posture, finding where different body parts should be. Hard work for me.
022. A little more and… scrap! – back to square one. Change of mind about the strategy.
I was planning to do the usual thing – make body, hands, feet and head, bake them and then assemble them for one final bake. The thing is that the more completed body parts I have on the doll, the easier it is for me to see what to do and I don’t get lost in proportions so much.
So I am going to try a different approach – I will assemble all modules earlier – before sculpting the body.
Here is the plan:
– the head is made
– the feet are made
– I will make the hands
– assemble the whole doll
– sculpt everything, check everything, smooth everything
– final bake
Here you go – that is where I was (lost in proportions), and what I have now – all clay is stripped down to armature.
See you later
A little more – this all is very difficult.
024. Well, I hate to tell you that a hip correction surgery is coming up for Water Lily. I have been so not wanting to do it, but I am afraid I am not going to be happy until it is done.
What can I say.. There were a few minor changes…
025. After the surgeries the joints became exposed and vulnerable. To make them strong again – I used magic sculpt epoxy. It will harden to cement-like state and the armature integrity will be restored.
The same thing with the tube modules. The tubes on the wire tend to rotate, which will cause cracks later. To stop them from rotating – add a tiny bit of magic sculpt inside the tube, set the module on the wire, pinch the tube with pliers a couple of times (see the picture with hand armature below), cover completely with magic sculpt, leave alone for until curing. Magic sculpt working time – 30 minutes, until hard – an hour, complete cure – 8 hours, dead sure – 12 hours.
Just an update without pictures. I sculpted everything and baked. It is cooling now. Pretty close to completion of the sculpting part – the most difficult. Will sand and post pictures tonight or tomorrow.
027. The body is done. I could have continued with cutting and adding, but I ran out of bakes. There is a certain number of bakes polymer clay can take before it would start changing color. I noticed that the hands and feet started to get a bit darker than the fresh clay – that means I need to wrap it up, ready or not.
Adding modules and sculpting it all together has the advantage of seeing the body structure better but it cuts down on the number of bakes I can afford. Sculpting parts separately and adding the modules for the last bakes provides unlimited number of bakes but it is more difficult for a beginner artists to figure out pose and anatomy. Next time I will try to add the modules, sculpt all together but remove the modules before baking each time.
Anyway, here is what I have:
The body was sanded with abrasive mesh.
Then it was coated with TLS (translucent liquid sculpey) and baked one more time to set the TLS.
TLS covers all kinds of sins: sanding marks, fingerprints, small holes, etc. and makes the clay nice and smooth. While you are putting it on the clay with a brush, the small pieces of dirt and tiny lint fibers “float” to the surface and can be removed easily. Add TLS with a brush – not too thin (so that the brush does not scrape dry), not too thick (so that TLS does not run). TLS is self-leveling – it will become smooth after spreading it on the clay, the brush strokes will disappear.
Think of TLS like the “skin” for polymer clay. It is a FINAL step, after all cutting/adding/sanding is done, because TLS is very hard to sand away and it is slightly different from the clay in appearance (more translucent).
TLS bakes to semi-clear translucent matte smooth finish.
Next – painting, blushing, makeup, eyelashes and hair.
Thank you for keeping me company. 🙂
Continues on Part 5